Every July since 2019, I go for a solo lunch at Mariscos Jalisco, where Raul Ortega has been parking his white lonchera along Olympic Boulevard in Boyle Heights for more than 20 years. The meal is a ritual. It kicks off for me the task of creating
smirk as I exclaimed over these twin quarter-moons and their perfection of contrasts. They really are an ideal introductory taste of Los Angeles. I now bring visitors (and uninitiated Angelenos) to Mariscos Jalisco often. Tacos dorados de camarones at