down with emphasis. “Apey Kade in Tarzana. That is where the cooking tastes like home to me.” Three days later I’m at Apey Kade in front of a plate of string hoppers — thin rice flour noodles steamed into flat, pearly nests. Garnishes surround them
.” Coconut is the backdrop — of this collage and of the cuisine itself. Rice with a variety of dishes (including, left to right, raw kale salad, jackfruit with grated coconut, dal, fish curry and bitter melon) at Apey Kade. (Silvia Razgova / For The Times