El Coraloense

are now branches of the noodle shop on Fairfax Avenue and in the Americana at Brand in Glendale. — P.I.E. 2057 Sawtelle Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 231-7373, tsujita-la.com Char siu tsukemen from Tsujita. (Mariah Tauger / Los Angeles Times) El Coraloense

(80) El Coraloense is a small, laid-back mariscos joint tucked into a Bell Gardens strip mall with some of the cheekiest, most over-the-top Mexican mariscos in the city. The heart of the menu is the kitchen’s baroque ceviches. The Changeonada is a

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au vin or the seething pig parts at the local carnitas truck, you know exactly what I mean. And there may be nothing in Southern California quite so Ugly Delicious as the aguachile at the Bell Gardens seafood specialist El Coraloense, the restaurant’s

.(Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times) El Coraloense is crammed into a mini-mall space next to a liquor store, in a part of Bell Gardens you probably wouldn’t find yourself passing through unless you were headed to the card clubs. There is no alcohol — the

. (Silvia Razgova / For The Times) El Coraloense (80) El Coraloense is a small, laid-back mariscos joint tucked into a Bell Gardens strip mall with some of the cheekiest, most over-the-top Mexican mariscos in the city. The heart of the menu is the kitchen’s