craft; it was as if she had vision in her hands. Her mastery yielded nearly translucent, elastic discs. Julia Silva makes flour tortillas. (Silvia Razgova / For The Times) The magnificence of the tacos has made El Ruso a crucial stop on the Los Angeles
three years, and they’ve been perfecting their techniques together for 20. Combining culinary traditions from Sonora and Baja California, El Ruso looks to be made for the moment in tacos. Soto is a native of Tijuana. He was 17 when he landed his first