traceable roots: Seafood quenelle, sauce Meunière, steak tartare (lots of steak tartare) and billowing soufflés are back to claim a place in the spotlight. Bartender Ornella Ashcraft prepares a cocktail at Pasjoli. (Mariah Tauger / Los Angeles Times) Dave
Beran’s Pasjoli opened in Santa Monica in September. He puts forth a shrewd hybrid: the costly temple of high gastronomy presented as design-forward bistro. The dishes I ticked off above are present; so are a glittering caviar service, a trembling onion