cold noodles at Yang’s Kitchen in Alhambra. Chef-owner Chris Yang and chef de cuisine Elaine Chang infuse oil with the fresh-crop alliums they find every week at the market: leeks, green garlic, the sharp little onions with their reedy tops that I once
mound of Dungeness crab meat and a dusting of bottarga. Its balance of salty, minerally and earthy-sweet flavors hits like a tonic. It’s one of many good reasons right now to visit Yang’s Kitchen at night. “A right-place-right-moment spirit animates