To understand Keith Corbin as a chef, and the cooking at Alta Adams he calls “California soul food,” order his oxtails over rice. They arrive wholly undisguised: blocks of butchered appendage, the tailbones in jutting shapes of jigsaw puzzle pieces
Kitchen in Inglewood. A customer sips a cocktail at Alta’s bar. (Mariah Tauger / Los Angeles Times) Alta Adams enters this lineage as a synergist for conversation around the evolving definition and direction of soul food in America. Adrian Miller, author