., West Hollywood, (310) 657-4662; pizzana.com Pizzana’s Amatriciana pie. (Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times) Playa Amor (59) At Playa Amor, Thomas Ortega’s beachy, marina-adjacent restaurant in Long Beach, Ortega goes full-bore into his brand of Chicano
, cooked until they collapse into a fragrant, musky birria. — P.I.E. 6527 E. Pacific Coast Hwy., Long Beach, (562) 430-2667, playaamorlb.com Pescado zarandeado, a 1.5-to-2-pound striped bass, at Playa Amor. (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times) Spoon by H