Review: At Teddy’s Red Tacos, Tijuana-style birria takes its place in the beef canon

In the six months since Bill Addison and I joined the L.A. Times as co-restaurant critics, my personal highlight reel of phenomenally good Meals to Remember has blown up to embarrassing proportions. There have been rewarding late-night food truck...

Teddy's Red Tacos    Yours Truly    Kra Z Kai's BBQ    Sonoratown    Nightshade   

There is hope in the sight of Wes Avila’s sweet potato taco splotched with almond salsa. It’s a patch of sunshine on days when we may not be otherwise noticing blue sky. I gobbled one recently while picking up an “emergency taco kit” from Avila’s...

Broken Spanish    Burritos La Palma    Cacao Mexicatessen    Carnitas El Momo    Coni'Seafood    Gish Bac    Guelaguetza    Guerrilla Tacos    Madre    Mariscos Jalisco    Mi Ranchito Veracruz    Mole de los Reyes    Poncho's Tlayudas    El Ruso    Sonoratown    Tacos 1986    Tacos Ensenada    Teddy's Red Tacos    Tortas Ahogadas El Rey    Zacatecas Restaurant   

As year-end lists go, wrangling something as wondrously complex as the Los Angeles dining scene is always a fraught task. 2019 provided plenty of threads to chase. The resurgence of French cuisine saw its apex in posh restaurants with chefs who...

Colapasta    Kra Z Kai's BBQ    La Diosa de los Moles    Nightshade    Spoon & Pork    Tacos y Birria La Unica    Bulgarini Gelateria    Tacos 1986    Yang's Kitchen    Spoon By H 7158 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles    Pasjoli    Porridge + Puffs    Bon Temps    Hayato    Fiona   

Youthful and energetic, Musky Bilavarn ping-pongs around his small Laotian restaurant, Kra Z Kai’s in Corona, like a dervish: There he is manning the gas grill in the kitchen, there he is taking a phone order at the counter, there he is refilling...

Kra Z Kai's BBQ   

In the high desert city of Hesperia, 80 miles northeast of Los Angeles, it was so cold on a recent night that the salsas outside the Tacos La Madrina food truck stiffened with frost. The weather didn’t stop customers from lining up for tacos in...