Jonathan Gold reviews Irenia in Santa Ana, which is reinterpreting traditional Filipino cuisine

This is the Filipino food moment — I think we can all agree on that. Restaurants such as Lasa, Irenia and Washington, D.C.’s Bad Saint have become media stars in a way that no Filipino restaurants in America have before, and The Times has been...

Have you noticed that whenever I write about a Filipino restaurant, I’m not just reviewing the food, service and ambience; I’m also presenting a defense and a primer on the cuisine itself? I do this because despite Filipinos representing the...

I’m wondering whether there has ever been a dining year quite like 2017 here in Los Angeles. The most interesting new kitchens seemed to be either in fantastically expensive tasting menu restaurants or in food courts; they stock their wine lists...

Verlaine    Cosa Buona    Irenia    Kismet    Holbox    Pizzana    Kobee Factory    Rossoblu    Vespertine    Dialogue   

Ryan Garlitos of Irenia Restaurant dreamed of opening his own place someday. He just didn’t expect it to happen so soon. He and his girlfriend, Sarah Mosqueda, had been doing itinerant supper clubs, starting on a whim. “I was making dinner for...

If you’ve had the Filipino dish sisig in OC, chances are it’s the version that has deep-fried pork belly hacked into fingertip-sized chunks, then tossed with citrus juice, onions and peppers. The new MFK By Aysee—the acronym stands for Modern...