Jonathan Gold says the time for Filipino cuisine is now, and the place is Los Angeles

“You have to remove the pork taste,” Charles Olalia remembers his grandmother intoning about the crucial ingredients in the classic Filipino dish called sisig. She would have her whole household in Pampanga (northwest of Manila in the Philippines)...

When you hit Irenia at the right time in the afternoon, maybe late on a Saturday when the lunch rush has faded away, you may run into a couple of old guys who look as if they’ve never left their table in the bar, nursing bottles of San Miguel and...

Irenia   

Have you noticed that whenever I write about a Filipino restaurant, I’m not just reviewing the food, service and ambience; I’m also presenting a defense and a primer on the cuisine itself? I do this because despite Filipinos representing the...

We are here once again at the Far East Plaza, the modest Chinatown mall that is home to the recently reviewed Howlin’ Ray’s, Pok Pok Phat Thai and Chego, among other players in the current food movement. We are in Unit 120, the self-described...

The first time I saw Lord Maynard Llera was in November 2020. He was masked and occupied by a shimmering-hot wok full of vegetables in a converted garage. He had transformed part of his home in La Cañada Flintridge into a separate kitchen for Kuya...