Bill Addison, Stephanie Breijo, Jenn Harris, Lucas Kwan Peterson, Gustavo Arellano
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Los Angeles Times
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September 15, 2022
Maybe it’s the thrill of a first slide into a squeaky red booth under a low-hanging wrought-iron lamp. Or the wonder-inducing mound of rice and a pool of refried beans that seem to spread forever across a platter that a dutiful server will warn is...