Destroyer in Culver City disrupts the idea of fine dining like nowhere else on Earth

If you were looking for the oddest dish being served in an American restaurant right now, you should probably start with the fish course at Jordan Kahn’s new Vespertine, a dish that nudges the idea of culinary abstraction dangerously close to the...

I’m wondering whether there has ever been a dining year quite like 2017 here in Los Angeles. The most interesting new kitchens seemed to be either in fantastically expensive tasting menu restaurants or in food courts; they stock their wine lists...

Verlaine    Cosa Buona    Irenia    Kismet    Holbox    Pizzana    Kobee Factory    Rossoblu    Vespertine    Dialogue   

Before Jordan Kahn’s unearthly project Vespertine took up residence in the four-story building at 3599 Hayden Ave. in Culver City, architect Eric Owen Moss simply called his structure “Waffle.” No nickname could be more apt: Its form resembles...

Vespertine   

Many things can be said about the soft-fried black beans at the West Hollywood restaurant Verlaine. They are creamy. They sing with herbs. The slightly high fragrance but not the presence of dried beef lies just underneath. The tiny, white cubes...

How is Broken Spanish? Your opinion of the place, a modernist Mexican restaurant a few steps from Staples Center, is probably going to depend on what you think about the idea of chopped snout in your sweet potato. If you are of a certain...