Dominga Velasco Rodriguez doesn’t remember a time when she didn’t know how to make mole. The head mole maker at Sabores Oaxaqueños in Koreatown has been making the meticulously seasoned, chile-thickened sauce since she was a child. Now, nearly six
decades later, she’s cheerful but firm in her mole-making opinions. She eschews canned ingredients, never writes down recipes and refuses to cook in a bad mood (“The bitterness will be palpable in the food”). “I still feel a burst of adrenaline when I step