Jonathan Gold reviews Kali Restaurant: It's too much of a good thing

You know what a Los Angeles chef looks like, right? She’s the one tweezing pea shoots and celery-root chips onto a bowl of quinoa, lacto-fermenting turnips or scattering wildflowers onto a cheese pizza. Unless he’s the dude slamming carne asada...

You can call it a tasting menu. You can call it omakase. You can call it dégustation, a banquet menu or modern kaiseki. What it tends to be is a meal made up of dozens of small tastes, served in exquisite rhythm, where the courses, their order and...

When the weather gets hot, the noodles get cold. And here are some of the coldest. Yu Chun — How cold is Yu Chun’s mool chic naengmyun? So cold that it gives you an ice cream headache. So cold that the tangy beef broth builds up in soft drifts in...

I’m wondering whether there has ever been a dining year quite like 2017 here in Los Angeles. The most interesting new kitchens seemed to be either in fantastically expensive tasting menu restaurants or in food courts; they stock their wine lists...

Verlaine    Cosa Buona    Irenia    Kismet    Holbox    Pizzana    Kobee Factory    Rossoblu    Vespertine    Dialogue   

A decade or two from now, when line-caught sea bass will seem as rare and unobtainable as sturgeon caviar is now, drive-through windows sell more lentil bowls than cheeseburgers and we have gotten used to the idea of Taylor Swift as the governor...