In praise of Anissa Helou, one of my culinary heroes

Around Easter, my social media feeds began marching out a steady parade of images featuring maamoul, the small filled pastries much loved in Lebanon, Syria and other swaths of the Levant. The algorithms know me too well. A lightly yeasted dough is...

A Trader Joe’s fan account had posted a jar of the spice blend in January that showed the label. Among the listed ingredients are coriander, chickpea flour, sunflower oil and lemon oil. Yeah. La. Earlier this month a video clip circulated on the...

I’ve been thinking lately about the ways that cuisines are transformed and reinterpreted when they’re translated from home cooking to a professional kitchen. It was the subject of my newsletter last week, in conversations with food writers Andy...

The deep red of ground sumac brings to mind the ripest strawberry, though the spice’s flavor veers lemony and tart — like a floral vinegar distilled into powder. Its brightness defines sumaqqiyeh, a Palestinian stew with origins in Gaza City,...

Anissa Helou speared a charred, oval slice of grilled donbalan — Farsi for lamb testicle — with her fork and considered her bite. The appearance and texture of the kebab resembled a supple sea scallop, though the flavor had a restrained gaminess,...

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