Just before the lockdown order came in March, I dined again at Taco María in Costa Mesa. I ate poppyseed tostadas topped with Dungeness crab. They were exquisite. I enjoyed lamb birria infused with star anise and coffee. Chef Carlos Salgado had
tortillas served with the family meals are Taco María’s signature heirloom blue-corn tortillas, which are quite unlike any other tortilla you’ve ever tasted. A beautiful, speckled blue gray, they are thick and heavy even as they measure only four inches