chops are cooked over the wood-burning grill at Vaca in Costa Mesa. (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG) 5. Arc (2018 ranking: 3) Across America right now, wood-fire kitchens are all the rage. Chef Noah Blom’s Arc in Costa Mesa was
ground zero for that trend. Arc’s kitchen is fueled 100 percent by wood. No gas. No electric appliances. Under the dim glow of crystal chandeliers, everything on the menu here is touched by fire and smoke: inch-thick-and-foot-long slabs of bacon, chicken