Hana re

March 17 feels like an eternity ago. That was the day when I reconfirmed my reservation and was looking forward to dining the following night at Hana re in Costa Mesa. Moments later came another text from the restaurant: “The city of Costa Mesa is

takeout trays. Takeout sashimi for two from Hana re in Costa Mesa (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG) The sashimi tray is meant for two. The fish changes daily. Mine included sweet amaebi (sweet shrimp), bafun uni, hiramasa (wild

. 28, 2018. (Photo by Leonard Ortiz, Orange County Register/SCNG) 1. Hana re (2018 ranking: 5) Atsushi Yokoyama welcomes 10 to 12 diners a night to a chef’s counter hidden behind The Lab in Costa Mesa in what appears at first glance to be an abandoned

created by Atsushi Yokoyama, executive chef at Hana re in Costa Mesa. (Photo by Mark Rightmire, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Vine    A Restaurant    The Ranch Restaurant    Irenia    Water Grill    Broadway    Mastro's Steakhouse    Brick    Vaca    Arc    Taco María    Marché Moderne    Bourbon Steak    Hana re    Solita   

, instagram.com/omakasebygino Chef Gino Choi at Omakase by Gino in Santa Ana (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG) Hana re Another Japanese restaurant with only about 10 seats, chef Atsushi Yokoyama’s extraordinary Hana re isn’t nearly as

. Weekends are booked months in advance but weeknights are usually available a week or two out. The Lab, 2930 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714-545-2800, hanaresushi.com Hairy crab from Hokkaido at Hana re in Costa Mesa (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County

from about $75 per person. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714-432-1140, thecapitalgrille.com Shrimp and crab cocktail from the takeout menu at The Capital Grille in Costa Mesa (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG) Hana re Hana re, the

incredible Japanese kaiseki and sushi restaurant at the Lab in Costa Mesa, began offering very limited platters and bento boxes to-go. While the price for dine-in dinner at Hana re has always exceeded $200 per person, the new takeout boxes allow anyone to

The Capital Grille    Hana re    Hendrix    Marché Moderne    The Ranch Restaurant   

easily one of the best tacos in OC. Mess Hall, 1705 Flight Way, 714-941-5418, fondamoderna.com Cecina taco from Fonda Moderna at Mess Hall in Tustin (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG) 10. Sashimi from Hana re One of the many things

is impossible to replicate with takeout, Hana re’s sashimi platters to-go are nonetheless extraordinary. The Lab, 2930 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714 545 2800, hanaresushi.com Sashimi takeout from Hana re in Costa Mesa (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange

the quality of fish here is well above average, the range is fairly standard — approaching parity with, say, Omakase by Gino but still trailing light years behind Hana re. But notice has been served. Rebel Omakase is an emerging force to be reckoned

This is the fifth edition of this guide — a roadmap to Orange County’s wildly diverse dining scene. Narrowing this list to 75 recommendations gets harder each year. How do I compare an intimate, 10-seat oasis like Hana re in Costa Mesa with, say

, the chaotic, smoky, steamy, non-air-conditioned El Coyotito in San Juan Capistrano? When you call to make a reservation at Hana re — reservations are essential and available only by phone — the soft voice on the other end will ask, “You are aware that

upholding the law that’s been that’s been working its way through the lower courts for years. I’ll savor that memory. It was indeed a great one. The chef at Hana re in Costa Mesa paired a small piece of perfectly seared duck liver with a slice of freshwater

chefs served foie gras to begin with, but most of those who did will now abide and stop serving duck liver. Sadly, it’s no longer available at Hana re, which by the way is performing better than ever. This omakase sushi counter has become a serious

and foie gras at Hana re Au revoir, foie gras! Gone but not forgotten, we’ll always have memories of chef Atsushi Yokoyama’s masterful pairing of foie gras and roasted eel. The Lab, 2930 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714-545-2800, hanaresushi.com Foie gras

and freshwater eel at Hana re in Costa Mesa, before the ban. (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG) 2. Lemon meringue cheesecake at CdM Lemon meringue pie layered onto a cheesecake. This might be the greatest mash-up since the

“Hey Brad, where should I eat this week?”  I hear some version of that question every day, so one might think I’d have a canned answer queued up and ready to go. More often than not, I’ve replied “Hana re.” Or else Taco Maria or Vaca. Looking back