cutlet on a domed homemade milk bread bun with a vegetable relish and pickled cucumber. Compare it to the one chef Johnny Lee is making at his brand-new Pearl River Deli in Chinatown’s Far East Plaza. Lee makes a pineapple bao, a sugared bun so named
on television). Pork chop on a pineapple bao at Pearl River Deli. (Bill Addison / Los Angeles Times) It’s a staple on the Pearl River Deli’s short, mercurial menu. Lee took over the space recently vacated by Eddie Huang’s Baohaus, which sits next to