The first thing I saw when I walked up to Hendrix—the new Laguna Niguel restaurant by the group that also owns the Deck and Driftwood Kitchen—was the rotisserie. It resembled a vending machine, or at least the heavy-duty version of the “Set It and
Forget It” contraption that made Ron Popeil famous. It had big knobs, glowing heating elements and wheels. Hendrix puts it up front as a not-so-subtle suggestion of what you should be ordering. The appeal of it is undeniable. Whole chickens twirled and