add pepperoncinis or banana peppers, there is a serve-yourself area by the drinking fountain. No frills. No extras. Just good, honest sandwiches. 1013 Alpine St., Los Angeles, (213) 250-2464, esmdeli.com ⭐ E. Stretto ⭐ The Ill Papa sandwich at E
. Stretto on South Broadway in downtown Los Angeles. (Gabriella Angotti-Jones / Los Angeles Times) Of all the sandwiches at this downtown deli, the Ill Papa is what owners Joel David Miller and Dave Fernie refer to as their “show pony.” The sandwich cross