It’s time for the 17th course to be served at Somni. Seven cooks line up along a marble kitchen counter as spotless as their fitted chefs’ whites. They fan out, delivering cut-glass plates to each of the 10 diners seated in a row in front of them
with a pool of yolk-colored Thai curry. The 18th course is on its way. Welcome to the headiest heights of luxury dining, hidden in the ground-floor warrens of the SLS Beverly Hills. Somni — a tiny flight of fancy where dinner, before beverages, costs