Review: L.A.'s next great sushi bar is in Atwater Village

Morihiro opened in Atwater Village during the final days of November. Then, as now, COVID-19 cases were spiking terrifyingly in Los Angeles. The city was days away from another stay-at-home order that would keep indoor dining shuttered for months....

Framed against the sky, tranquil and removed, Inn Ann is a 35-seat Japanese restaurant in a remote corner of the Hollywood & Highland shopping center. Reaching it means navigating the chaos and spectacle specific to this tourism-riddled juncture...

For eight years, from 2012 to 2020, Shunji occupied the wildest, most only-in-Los-Angeles location for a sushi bar possible: the Sawtelle restaurant operated out of a stuccoed 1930s-era building shaped like a soup bowl. Mr. Cecil’s California Ribs...

At a tiny sushi counter in this boundless capital's southwest suburbs, nine of us sat silent and alert waiting for Koji Kimura to finish readying his lunchtime service. We whispered our drink orders to the restaurant’s lone server while listening...

Morihiro “Mori” Onodera may have the most passionate fans in the universe of Los Angeles sushi, partisans who swapped pictures of his dishes on sites like Chowhound long before Instagram existed, blissed out at his deeply slashed sayori and tended...