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What to eat now: Grub your way through this food hall in Montebello

Jenn Harris • Los Angeles Times • May 31, 2022
I favor the build-your-own adventure model when deciding on my weekend meal plans. The best way to achieve this is with a visit to a food hall. In Stanton, there’s the Rodeo 39 Public Market. Downtown L.A. has Grand Central Market. There’s Blossom...

After a delicious trip abroad, a return to American reality

Bill Addison • Los Angeles Times • May 28, 2022
How long does it take you to truly settle into relaxation during a significant, longer-than-a-long-weekend vacation? I don’t usually reach some true point of rest — the falling away of work and daily-life stresses, an “Oh, you’re still there!”...

Best thing I ate: Lamb kebabs in a hot pink sauce in Laguna Niguel

Brad A. Johnson • Orange County Register • May 24, 2022
The lamb seekh kebabs at Rangeen in Laguna Niguel are without a doubt the prettiest thing I’ve eaten in months. Rangeen is a new California-inspired Indian restaurant with a fun surfer-meets-Hindi-fashion vibe and only about 30 seats. The kebab is...

What to eat now: A tartare that tastes of one thing: carrots

Jenn Harris • Los Angeles Times • May 23, 2022
Carrot tartare at n/soto Meatless tartare is an ongoing obsession. The beefsteak tomato tartare from Jose Andres’ Bazaar Meat is still a revelation. The precise preparation of the fruit mimics beef so perfectly that some diners have a hard time...

Review: This nouvelle Persian cuisine is a big win for Orange County

Brad A. Johnson • Orange County Register • May 12, 2022
Like trying to push a square peg through a round hole, I scrape my plastic spoon around the perpendicular edge of the cardboard bowl, furiously trying to corral the last slurp of green-plum broth and a final nub of koofteh studded with pistachios,...

Burger of the month: How do you feel about arugula?

Brad A. Johnson • Orange County Register • May 11, 2022
The arugula makes it sound fancy, but the cheeseburger at Oak in Laguna Beach is quite traditional: Swiss cheese, pickles, caramelized onion and a “secret sauce.” There are two secret sauces, really. One is a classic Thousand Island-style sauce....

What to eat now: Yes, bathe the cheese in Champagne

Jenn Harris • Los Angeles Times • May 9, 2022
Langres cheese with Champagne at Kippered Langres, the cow’s-milk cheese from the Champagne-Ardenne region in France, is often served with bubbles. At Kippered, the new wine bar in downtown Los Angeles, you can have those bubbles poured over your...

Critic’s Notebook: Sneak peek at the 75 Best Places to Eat 2022

Brad A. Johnson • Orange County Register • May 4, 2022
Did you miss me? You probably didn’t even notice, but in case you were wondering why I’ve been so quiet lately, it’s because I took a brief break from my weekly columns to focus on my annual guide to the 75 Best Places to Eat, which I’m happy to...

What to eat now: A focaccia bread ice cream ribboned with olive oil and flakes of salt

Jenn Harris • Los Angeles Times • May 2, 2022
Focaccia bread ice cream at Antico Nuovo Nearing the end of a 2.5-hour dinner at Antico Nuovo in Larchmont, our server recommended the focaccia ice cream. It was around 9 p.m. Drowsy and full, I was on the fence. I asked if I had heard her...

With the return of Poncho's Tlayuda, a master is back in action

Bill Addison • Los Angeles Times • April 30, 2022
The first time I had the namesake dish from Poncho’s Tlayudas was at Smorgasburg L.A., on a Sunday soon after I began working for The Times in late 2018. What I recall most vividly from that morning was the moronga — the blood sausage that Alfonso...