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That time I ordered the butter flight. You should too

Jenn Harris • Los Angeles Times • March 20, 2023
There was a kid in my middle-school class who used to eat straight butter. I remember him pulling gold foil-wrapped squares out of his lunch pail, like the ones you get with a basket of bread in a chain restaurant. He'd eat them as a snack. The...

Homa Dashtaki's beautifully written 'Yogurt & Whey' is about so much more than dairy

Bill Addison • Los Angeles Times • March 18, 2023
A narrowly specific cookbook title like “Yogurt & Whey” — its nearly 300 pages bound in a thick cover with an abstract, off-white design that reveals little — might make one wonder just how much author Homa Dashtaki could possibly convey on the...

Hot chicken is everywhere. What about hot fish?

Jenn Harris • Los Angeles Times • March 13, 2023
Over the last decade, I watched hot chicken take hold of Los Angeles in a way I'd never seen a dish grip an entire city. The fiery poultry with roots in Nashville is everywhere, with countless restaurants devoted to the stuff and hot...

The best bagel shops in Los Angeles

Betty Hallock, Bill Addison, Danielle Dorsey, Jenn Harris, Stephanie Breijo, Lucas Kwan Peterson • Los Angeles Times • March 9, 2023
Just as in the Oscar-nominated film from directors Daniel Kwan and Daniel Scheinert, bagels seem to be everywhere all at once lately. This might not be news in New York, where bagels first made their stateside appearance in the late 19th century,...

The best restaurants for caviar service in Los Angeles

Danielle Dorsey, Bill Addison, Stephanie Breijo, Cindy Carcamo • Los Angeles Times • March 7, 2023
Caviar is everywhere, not just gracing high-end restaurant menus as in days past but offered in fun and approachable formats that have drawn the attention of a new crowd of diners. And let’s set the record straight: Caviar isn’t just fish eggs....

An almost vegan food crawl in L.A. with Theo Rossi

Jenn Harris • Los Angeles Times • March 3, 2023
Theo Rossi is a pita bread and hummus connoisseur. The actor deems the pita and hummus at Bavel in the Arts District downtown to be among the best he’s ever tasted. He should know — he eats some form of the bread-and-dip duo every day. Rossi, who...

The best new restaurants in Pasadena

Jenn Harris • Los Angeles Times • February 27, 2023
I’ve lived most of my life in Pasadena, a sprawling suburb northeast of downtown Los Angeles. It’s where Julia Child and Jackie Robinson lived for a time, where the Rose Parade and the Rose Bowl are held every year. And it’s home to the...

Saltie Girl is the newest standout in West Hollywood

Bill Addison • Los Angeles Times • February 27, 2023
Small squid had been stuffed with rice and suspended in glossy tomato-pepper sauce spiced with clove and bay leaf. Sardines in pepper olive oil were paired with piquillo peppers or spritzed with lemon or hot sauce before canning. A few threads of...

Learning the secrets of coffee-making from an L.A. master

Bill Addison • Los Angeles Times • February 25, 2023
“I tend to let the water do the heavy lifting,” Jack Benchakul said about his approach to coffee as he tipped coarsely ground beans into a funnel-shaped Hario V60. The statement led to a discussion of alkalinity and hardness in water, of the roles...

What makes Los Angeles a city with world-class coffee

Bill Addison • Los Angeles Times • February 23, 2023
Mondays are Jack Benchakul’s favorite day of the week at Endorffeine. He looks forward to the calm, even though he’s grateful for the streams of coffee fans that file into his tiny shop on Saturdays and Sundays. Ttaya Tuparangsi, his cousin, takes...