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Review: Poncho's Tlayudas serves one of L.A.’s defining dishes

Bill Addison • Los Angeles Times • April 28, 2022
One recent Friday I brought a widely traveled, well-fed friend visiting Los Angeles to Poncho’s Tlayudas, a weekend Oaxacan popup in South L.A. that reemerged from a two-year hiatus in early March. My friend had spent several days making the...

What to eat now: Can a tinned fish board be better than a charcuterie?

Jenn Harris • Los Angeles Times • April 26, 2022
As a food columnist, I’m out almost every night, trying new restaurants, stands and trucks. So people often want to know: What are you eating? Well, thanks for asking. Here are some of the best things I ate this week. These are not reviews, but...

How to eat at Hollywood’s 'it' restaurant tonight

Bill Addison • Los Angeles Times • April 23, 2022
This week I review Mother Wolf, the Roman restaurant from pasta maestro Evan Funke that is a Hollywood production in every sense. I lead the piece with a celebrity sighting — something I’ve never done before and never expect to do again — but this...

'Are you breathing? Hired.' Why SoCal restaurants are still deeply short-staffed

Jenn Harris • Los Angeles Times • April 22, 2022
In the fall of 2021, assistant restaurant manager Jamie Wongaroon witnessed a disgruntled customer berate a host during a busy dinner service at Uzumaki, the small sushi restaurant she manages in Culver City. The next day, Wongaroon spent around...

Review: Buzzy Mother Wolf serves Roman pastas to the Hollywood power scene

Bill Addison • Los Angeles Times • April 21, 2022
Malia Obama floats through the mobbed bar area at Mother Wolf, then disappears behind the opaque glass of a discrete side door. The gossip reaches our table: Michelle Obama and Beyoncé are dining in the back room. We suddenly see the signs...

The best things to eat at Coachella 2022 weekend 2

Jenn Harris • Los Angeles Times • April 20, 2022
Around 4 p.m. on Friday afternoon, midbite into a Canadian spot prawn dressed with prawn head butter and a sprinkle of matcha green tea over warm sushi rice, I momentarily forgot where I was. I forgot that I was at the Coachella Valley Music and...

The time for vegan dim sum is now

Bill Addison • Los Angeles Times • April 16, 2022
Southern California has an ever-expanding landscape of vegan restaurants that reflect the flavors of its culinary communities. Across Los Angeles you can find jackfruit-filled tacos, pasta Alfredo made with cashew “cheese,” seitan chicken and...

DTLA’s Yangban Society Shares a Sujebi-Matzoh Ball Soup Fusion Recipe

Heather Platt • Los Angeles Magazine • April 16, 2022
“I use my grandmother’s actual matzoh ball recipe,” says chef Kat Hong of the soup she and her husband John will serve as a special during the Passover holiday at their new Arts District restaurant Yangban Society. Kat who grew-up with Jewish...

Taco Tuesday: These tacos will make you fall in love with cecina

Brad A. Johnson • Orange County Register • April 12, 2022
The cecina at Maruca’s in Tustin is salty and crispy and chewy and buttery — and it is incredibly delicious. Cecina is one of the most underrated meats of the taco world. When it’s done wrong, it’s just stinky beef jerky. But when it’s done right,...

Review: What to try first at Ipoh Kopitiam in Alhambra? Coffee and toast

Bill Addison • Los Angeles Times • April 7, 2022
The color of the Malaysian-style white coffee that Kenji Tang serves at his Alhambra restaurant Ipoh Kopitiam hews closer to milk chocolate than pure cream. Its taste hints of chocolate too, in the way that lightly roasted coffee can, though a...