Restaurant Roll Call for November 2012

The deep red of ground sumac brings to mind the ripest strawberry, though the spice’s flavor veers lemony and tart — like a floral vinegar distilled into powder. Its brightness defines sumaqqiyeh, a Palestinian stew with origins in Gaza City,...

To many chefs, restaurateurs, writers and lovers of food, James Beard is solely a bald, smiling icon on awards bestowed by the foundation that bears his name. His once-outsize influence on food in America had begun to contract well before his...

L.A. dining culture thrives on plurality. Restaurants in the region’s many rooted immigrant communities cook remarkable foods to please their own populaces. Second-generation chefs graft traditions and innovations in singular ways, often returning...

A takeout window seems an apt location to begin thinking through some of the Los Angeles restaurants that managed not only to open in 2020, but also to enrich the city’s culture with creative achievement and personal narrative. This carryout setup...

Sandwiches are like one of the year’s best picture Oscar contenders: Everything, everywhere, all at once. Within a recent 24-hour span, I admired the contrast of soft-scrambled eggs and spicy-sweet fried chicken on a brunch sandwich at Distrito...