At 71Above, the view of L.A. is even prettier than the food

At 71Above restaurant atop the US Bank building, chef Vartan Abgaryan goes luxurious. His way with vegetables in particularly notable. Jonathan Gold reviews.

Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • February 17, 2017

This review, I’m guessing, is going to start with a parsnip, a fat, late-winter example of the pale root vegetable that Vartan Abgaryan has cooked, glazed with duck fat, and buried under a heap of flowers at his restaurant 71Above. What looks like...

The full article can be read on the Los Angeles Times website.

Jonathan Gold finds a spot that takes regional Mexican cooking on an adventure

Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • March 10, 2017

The morning after my last meal at Maestro, Danny Godinez’s new Mexican restaurant in Old Pasadena, I pulled the leftover barbacoa out of the refrigerator to see if I could salvage enough for a taco. There were still a few scraps of lamb left, but...

Review: At Terrine, Kris Morningstar becomes a chef's chef

Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • February 20, 2015

If you are fond of visiting Los Angeles restaurants in their first months, you have run into chef Kris Morningstar a lot, probably more times than you can imagine. He has cooked at Shutters and AOC, Grace, Meson G and Opaline, Casa and the weird...

At Kismet, your culinary destiny may come in the form of rabbit kebabs

Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • March 3, 2017

I once spent a week tailing the band Hanson, three teenage boys who had grown up on an island where the only pop available to them was from Time Life rock ’n’ roll anthologies, 1957-69. And the music they made reflected it — their songs were the...

Jonathan Gold review: Trois Familia, where the Trois Mec chef makes Mexican brunch

Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • December 4, 2015

So a French chef walks into a Mexican restaurant. Maybe he has a bowl of cocido, maybe he doesn’t. It is a good bowl of cocido; he may as well. So a French chef opens a Mexican restaurant. It is on the site of what used to be Alegria, an artists’...

The Tsujita brings its intense ramen bowls to Glendale

Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • January 27, 2017

Have you, by chance, tasted tonkotsu ramen? Because the Kyushu-style noodles may be at their peak in Los Angeles at the moment: thin, straight noodles served in a pork broth of maximum intensity. Tonkotsu ramen is often layered with slices of soft...