When I first wrote about Oliver’s Osteria last year, I wrote of a talented young chef, Ferdinando Bernardi, who had just arrived from Italy to work for restaurateur Erik De Marchi, who himself had emigrated from Italy to work as chef in Los Angeles
. Erik De Marchi is himself a chef, and a damn good one. When he came to California all those years ago, it was to work in the kitchen at Angelini Osteria, one of the best Italian restaurants in California. Oliver’s Osteria is De Marchi’s first