Review: Roy Choi's Commissary is both abstract riff, hotel coffee shop

It takes dedication to cook a memorable carrot. At Commissary in Los Angeles, Roy Choi focuses on vegetables.

Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • October 17, 2014

Not so long ago, the greatest chefs were defined by their crawfish gratins, truffled soups and elaborate pheasant galantines. At the moment, a chef’s seriousness may well depend on his or her skill in preparing carrots. Daniel Patterson, of San...

The full article can be read on the Los Angeles Times website.

Review: At Pot in Koreatown, Roy Choi's still messing with expectations

Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • July 3, 2014

Roy Choi has gone through a lot in the last few years, and his journey — from a chef ingloriously fired from a high-profile restaurant to food truck pioneer to baron of a restaurant empire — has been much celebrated lately. His cookbook and...

Jonathan Gold review: Trois Familia, where the Trois Mec chef makes Mexican brunch

Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • December 4, 2015

So a French chef walks into a Mexican restaurant. Maybe he has a bowl of cocido, maybe he doesn’t. It is a good bowl of cocido; he may as well. So a French chef opens a Mexican restaurant. It is on the site of what used to be Alegria, an artists’...

Roy Choi and Daniel Patterson try to start a healthful fast-food revolution in Watts with Locol

Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • January 23, 2016

As you crawl down 103rd Street looking for a parking space, tooling past the Jordan Downs projects and the Florence Griffith Joyner Elementary School, it is not hard to spot Locol, the new quick-serve restaurant that is trying to transform Watts...

Jonathan Gold considers his favorite dishes from Food Bowl 2017

Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • May 26, 2017

I’m not sure what you’ve been doing this month. I’ve been spending most of my evenings at the first edition of Food Bowl, The Times’ month of food events that’s been a welter of special dinners, film screenings, art displays, farmers market...

Review: At Josiah Citrin's Charcoal Venice, the meat is meat. But the charred cabbage is something else.

Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • February 26, 2016

So I took a vegetarian to a steakhouse. I wasn’t trying to troll him or anything — he showed up with his dad — but he was there just the same. The rest of us ate grilled prime rib-eye, smoked short ribs and beef heart tartare. He had cabbage,...