Review: At Josiah Citrin's Charcoal Venice, the meat is meat. But the charred cabbage is something else.

Jonathan Gold reviews the Mélisse chef-owner's more casual restaurant near the beach. It shows what a little char can do.
Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • February 26, 2016
So I took a vegetarian to a steakhouse. I wasn’t trying to troll him or anything — he showed up with his dad — but he was there just the same. The rest of us ate grilled prime rib-eye, smoked short ribs and beef heart tartare. He had cabbage,...
The full article can be read on the Los Angeles Times website.

Related Articles

Review: Mian restaurant has noodles like no one else in the San Gabriel Valley

Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • March 18, 2016
You know zhajiangmian. It’s that dish of springy wheat noodles, often hand-pulled, tossed with bean sauce, ground pork and usually some other stuff, that you may have tasted in Chinese noodle shops like Malan Noodles in Hacienda Heights and China...

Review: In Venice Beach, the place to eat is Dudley Market, and the dish to try is uni-topped black risotto

Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • March 11, 2016
If you were going to design a restaurant representing the new Venice Beach, the one where postmodern mansions crowd next to crumbling apartment blocks, and the narrow alleys sometimes resemble the streets near the Rialto, you might well come up...

Jonathan Gold finds Travis Lett's izakaya MTN to be Peak Venice — and pretty Japanese too

Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • May 25, 2018
Is there a more Venice restaurant than MTN, the throbbing izakaya on Abbot Kinney? Well yes, there’s Travis Lett’s other restaurant Gjelina, a few steps south, but MTN — pronounced Mountain — is pretty close, a welter of man buns and chunky...

Inside the grand Hollywood restaurant Paley, Jonathan Gold takes amused small bites

Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • June 24, 2016
The last time I visited Paley, a bored parking attendant waved me into a Do Not Enter lane, through a maze of narrow passageways and down to a cavernous lower level where mine was pretty much the only car. An elevator whooshed me up to an...

Review: Red Medicine, a little like punk rock and splendid in its own way

Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • April 26, 2014
The night of the lunar eclipse, I was having a late supper at Red Medicine out on Wilshire, a few tables over from a man who had decided to dress as Jesus for the evening, a slender young man with long, straight hair and white robes flowing around...