Review: Go's Mart is Canoga Park's treasure for amazing sushi

Recently I was interviewed by Jay Rayner, the longtime restaurant critic at the Observer in London, about the differences between American and U.K. restaurant criticism. (In a nutshell: He thinks we American critics are an overly serious,...

When I first went to Sushi Nozawa near the end of 1987, I was mostly impressed with its rigor. The fish was good enough, the usual parade of tuna, yellowtail and mackerel, but there was a sign that read, “Today’s special: Trust me,” and the chef,...

It has never been easier to eat high-end sushi than it is now in Los Angeles — to surrender two hours and half a month’s rent to the choreographed roll of the waves. You can experience the masculine crispness of Mori or the postmodern wackiness of...

It has never been easier to eat high-end sushi than it is now in Los Angeles — to surrender two hours and half a month’s rent to the choreographed roll of the waves. You can experience the masculine crispness of Mori or the postmodern wackiness of...

Every piece of nigiri shaped by Morihiro Onodera’s hands reminds me to appreciate the humbler beauty beneath the shiny overlay. In matters of sushi, the sea treasures will always vie for the limelight: uni in the soft shades of Renoir’s oranges,...