Review: At Blackship in West Hollywood, an uneven take on Japanese-Italian cooking

Keiichi Kurobe, most recently the executive sous chef at Century City’s Hinoki + the Bird, draws from Japanese and Italian culinary traditions at his new West Hollywood restaurant, Blackship.

Patricia Escárcega • Los Angeles Times • February 7, 2019

The carbonara ramen tells you much of what you need to know about Blackship, a new Japanese-Italian restaurant tucked below the Sunset Strip. It’s a ramen bowl that’s had its DNA spliced with the classic Roman pasta: A snowbank of Parmesan cheese...

The full article can be read on the Los Angeles Times website.

Review: At Teddy’s Red Tacos, Tijuana-style birria takes its place in the beef canon

Patricia Escárcega • Los Angeles Times • February 14, 2019

There was a time in Southern California when birria was what you ate after church baptisms or for hungover Sunday morning meals, a restorative dish of musky goat broth rooted in the chivo-intensive cooking of west-central Mexico. Goat was as...

Review: Thanks to a larger-than-life taquero, Tacos 1986 is having its moment

Bill Addison • Los Angeles Times • February 7, 2019

At street stands that sell Tijuana-style tacos de adobada, the eye-catching centerpiece is usually a trompo — a vertical rotisserie stacked with marinated pork. In the case of 2-month-old Tacos 1986, the object of attention is the person manning...

Review: Uovo is a fast-pasta concept that actually works, Jonathan Gold admits

Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • December 1, 2017

Sometimes I think that the closest thing I have to a hobby is making spaghetti all’Amatriciana, the queen of the Roman repertoire, a dish that has inspired me to sneak in cured pig cheek from Norcia, bottled tomatoes from the slopes of Vesuvius,...

Jonathan Gold says Rossoblu may make you wish you knew a Bolognese grandmother

Jonathan Gold • Los Angeles Times • June 30, 2017

Have you tasted the minestra nel sacco at Rossoblu, more or less a bowl of chicken soup with dumplings cooked in a cloth bag? It’s a pretty common dish in the area around Bologna, and you’ll find lots of recipes for it in Italian cooking...

Taverna in Laguna Beach Has Mastered the Art of Risotto

Edwin Goei • OC Weekly • May 12, 2016

Anyone who cooks risotto knows it can’t be rushed. More than any other rice dish, it requires patience and diligence. The rice needs to be stirred and stirred until the grains accept the ladles of broth poured in little by little. Just as...