Why it paid off to delay a review of Kinn in Koreatown

When Kiyong “Ki” Kim opened his 20-seat restaurant, Kinn, in Koreatown late in 2021, he funneled all the ideas and ambitions that had been percolating in his brain for years into a 10-item menu of starters and entrees. Kim had cooked in the...

One of the best tasting menus in Los Angeles is served on a folding table, in a dark alley next to a dumpster. It’s where Justin Pichetrungsi hosts his omakase dinners, behind Anajak Thai, his family’s Sherman Oaks restaurant. It is the meal I...

Before settling at a table for my first dinner at Pijja Palace, the new sports bar in Silver Lake and the subject of this week’s review, I had already studied the menu online and pinpointed what my friend and I would be ordering. We’d start with...

If I were constructing my perfect meal from Shiku, the Grand Central Market stall run by Kwang Uh and Mina Park serving Korean comfort foods, I’d start with the Andong-jjimdak — Andong-style soy-braised chicken. The dish is a special and not...

Susan Yoon was furloughed from her job as chef de cuisine at Orsa & Winston shortly after the mid-March shutdown. At home, she cooked her way through a “pandemic pantry cleanout” and embraced projects such as transcribing her mother-in-law’s...