Review: Jonathan Gold thinks of Osawa as an izakaya-plus

Have you ever had a bite of food you wanted to last forever? For me, there was that first bite of otoro at Sushi Noguchi, and then the oyster I gulped while a cool breeze blew across Tomales Bay in Northern California. This past week, I added to...

I tend to grade supermarket sushi on a curve. Confined in plastic boxes under fluorescent lights in frigid deli cases, most packaged sushi takes all of the elements essential to good sushi and chucks them out the window in favor of convenience....

Kinjiro, the most elegant izakaya in Little Tokyo, is in the Honda Plaza at the far end of the neighborhood, in the space most recently inhabited by the offal-intensive izakaya b.o.s., which closed last fall, and to a casual observer it may seem...

When I first went to Sushi Nozawa near the end of 1987, I was mostly impressed with its rigor. The fish was good enough, the usual parade of tuna, yellowtail and mackerel, but there was a sign that read, “Today’s special: Trust me,” and the chef,...

When Sushilicious took over the space that Gen Kai left behind at the shopping center across from Irvine Valley College three years ago, it seemed to have a lot of promise. Here was another revolving sushi restaurant that would be cheap enough to...