Critic’s Notebook: Is dry-aged fish the next big thing on restaurant menus?

Critic Brad A. Johnson says everything he has always believed about fish and freshness has been turned upside down.
Brad A. Johnson • Orange County Register • March 17, 2022
It’s hard to recall a better piece of fish lately than the roasted sea bass at Detention, the restaurant formerly known as Playground in downtown Santa Ana. The skin is crisp and delicate, like a micro layer of chicharron. The flesh underneath...
The full article can be read on the Orange County Register website.

Related Articles

Best thing I ate: Under the spell of mushrooms in Newport Beach

Brad A. Johnson • Orange County Register • March 23, 2022
Dinner at Fable & Spirit in Newport Beach was a last-minute decision, so the only table available on short notice is outside on the sidewalk. Although the day was warm and sunny, things have suddenly taken a turn as a chill rolls in from the...

Review: Irvine and Cypress are no longer Thai food deserts

Brad A. Johnson • Orange County Register • March 31, 2022
It’s getting easier to find a decent pad Thai in Orange County. A memorable yum woon sen, too. In a surprising twist of good news, Thai restaurants have been opening at almost the same clip lately as Japanese ramen shops. I’ve already written...

Burger of the Month: Open wide, this one’s a beast in Huntington Beach

Brad A. Johnson • Orange County Register • June 15, 2022
Hambone’s Bar & Grill in Huntington Beach is first and foremost a barbecue restaurant. But there’s more to it than that. This is also a burger joint. The pastrami burger at Hambone’s Bar & Grill in Newport Beach (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange...

Pastrami tacos shine at L.A. Mexican-inspired Jewish pop-up

Jenn Harris • Los Angeles Times • August 26, 2021
I am not a fan of stuffing just any kind of food into a tortilla and calling it a taco, but the pastrami taco from a pop-up restaurant called Malli could be the most Los Angeles, of-the-moment thing I’ve eaten all year. When it works (e.g., Roy...

We tried more than 25 alternative proteins. These were the best (and worst)

Jenn Harris • Los Angeles Times • October 24, 2021
There is an entire universe of alternative proteins that mimic beef, chicken, pork and fish. There’s even a hunk of mycelium (the fibers that make up nature’s fungal network) created to look, feel and taste like a chicken breast. What follows are...